Below are links to various maintenance items. The Republic Service bulletins are here in their entirity. If you see anything (or have anything) we can add to this page for other Seabee owner's, please e-mail us and let us know. We will be glad to add it if we can.
Some files below require Adobe Acrobat Reader®. Get it here!
All publications below are to be used at the owner / operators own risk. The IRSOC takes no responsibility for the acuracy of the listed documents. Be sure to check with a licensed aircraft mechanic (A&P) or the FAA/CAA for the most up-to-date information.
Republic Seabee Parts List -
Original (2.13 MB)
Republic Seabee Lubrication Chart - Published by Esso Oil Co. Circa 1947 (650 KB) or Shell Lube Chart and Shell Lube Receipt. Thanks to Mike Shay and Robert Den Hartog.
Electrol Hydraulic Pump Manual - Electrol Incorporated, Kingston, NY (156 KB)
Electrol Hydraulic Powerpac Troubleshooting - Electrol Incorporated, Kingston, NY (300 KB)
Hydraulic Pump Problem Areas - Reprinted form an old newsletter from the 50's or 60's. Updated by yours truly. (21 KB)
Hydraulic Servicing - Reprinted from Aviation Magazine, September 1946 (1.3 MB)
Electrol 430 Hydraulic Pump Plunger Installation - This article explains how to re-install the plungers in the pump body (The hardest part). I can't guarantee results as I haven't tried this yet. The procedure sounds resonable however. (880 KB PDF)
Hydraulic Actuator O-rings - Drawing. If you need a set of o-rings, e-mail me (email@example.com) or check out the "Stuff for Sale" page. $12.00/kit.O Ring List - Updated 1-9-2017: Added MS numbers. O-ring AND bearing list by Tim Sutter. I checked most of the numbers and they are right on. Thanks Tim! (Download Old list here)
Fuel Cell Refurbishing
- Original document from Republic-? (58 KB)
FAA Approved Type Certificate Data Sheet for RC-3 - Sky Enterprises, Inc. (17 KB)
Seabee Fuel Dipstick Photo - Thanks to member J.R. Ranney. Stick is half round (dowel cut in half long-wise). I would add the RED "No Takeoff" warning up to the 12 gallon mark though.
Seabee Fuel Dipstick measurements - Thanks to the late Dick Sanders from his Seabee Newsletter, Volume 1, Number 6 dated July 1985 (43 KB)
Forward Rudder Pulley Replacement - (PDF) Change the forward 2" pulleys with 3" pulleys to reduce cable wear.
Replacing your Aft Rudder Cables - Updated 4-27-2018. Rev. 4 (PDF) Changing the aft rudder cables. Read these instructions completely BEFORE starting. by Steve Mestler and Bruce Hinds.
Check your Water Rudder Cables - (PDF) An easier way to change your Water Rudder Cables. by Steve Mestler
Check Your Rudder - (PDF) Loose rudder bracket can be fatal! This article exlains how to check for play in the lower rudder cable bracket and how to fix it. Thanks to an "active" Club member for authoring this and to Bruce Hinds for his input.
Cable List - (PDF) Thanks to Frank Scully at Beechurst Industries
Seabee Lubrication chart - Thanks to Mike Shay (NC6157K)
Seabee Elevator Trim System Rigging and replacement - (PDF) by Steve Mestler and Jaren Lynn. Fix, rig or replace your trim system. This shows you how with the help of your favorite A&P.
Check your forward Rudder Cables - (PDF) by Steve Mestler and Bruce Hinds. Check for fraying on forward rudder cables and replacement instructions. Steerable tail wheels especially.
Aileron Bellcrank fix - The pivot holes in your bellcrank may be frozen due to corrosion or lack of lubrication. This fix looks really good! (Tips and Tricks page)
Change your Crosstube Seals (PDF) - If you noticed water getting into your hull under the landing gear or your crosstube seals are cracked, you may need to change these. By Steve Mestler
Change your Tail Wheel Bearings (and Races) (PDF) - This procedure was writen for the Bendix Tail Wheel but may be of use to any tail wheel you have. By Steve Mestler
New bearing Seals for our Seabees (PDF) - Parker Hannifin makes "real" seals for our Seabee wheels. We can now eliminate the felt seals! Please follow the instructions carefully as there are parts of the old system that must be used again. Part numbers: 154-12000 (inner), 154-12400 (Outer)
Fix your leaking strut o-rings - (PDF) Complete strut overhaul procedures by Steve Mestler. Edited by Tim Sutter.
Tail Wheel Donut and Spacer replacement - (PDF) Replacing your shock absorber donuts when the trailing angle just can't be maintained anymore (90-95 dgrees from vertical). This procedure should be done VERY carefully as explained in the replacement instructions. If you need donuts and spacers, click here.
Strut O-rings - (PDF) Drawing of strut details and O-ring numbers. If you need a set (Enough for 2 struts) e-mail me (firstname.lastname@example.org) The kit includes X-Rings or standard O-rings. $16.00/kit.
Tail Wheel Cable Guard - (PDF) Simple fix for tail wheel cable jamming.
Tail Wheel Quadrant Adjustment - (PDF) Adjustment of the steerable taill wheel locking piston.
Weighing Your Seabee - How to weigh your Seabee after major weight changes.
Weight and Balance Worksheet - Excel spreadsheet to determine your Weight and CG location prior to flight.
"Unofficial" Seabee Specifications - List of parts, seals, dimensions and notes for our Seabees. No guarantee that it is accurate.
Aging Aircraft Practices - Good for keeping our Seabee's young! September 2003-Endorsed by the AOPA, EAA, AAA and FAA (424 KB)
If you have a heater in your Seabee, you need to read this! NPRM (read
AD) to be issued by the FAA that may require heaters to be inspected
and/or replaced. (Sounds expensive!)
Click here. Thanks to member Bruce Hinds for letting us know. Update! See AD 2017-06-03 below.
STC's, FAA 337's and Seabee Manuals!
Airworthiness Directives - Airframe (FAA)
Airworthiness Directives - Engines, Propeller and Appliances (FAA)
Buy your Manuals! Essco Aircraft Manuals and Supplies
Manuals on DVD! Check it out here (by
Get all known
records (STC's, etc.) for your airplane from
the FAA! $10.00 per airplane on CD! Paper records available as well. Various charges apply.
STC's or Search
for an STC
All known 337
forms for the Republic Seabee - UPDATED! Click
(Ed. Note: This e-mail was received by the Seabee Yahoo newsgroup and I felt it was important enough to post here. Please check your linkages! Steve for the IRSOC)
"The clevis on the gear piston doesn't last forever. Check your clevis (mine was original). Not only does your gear not operate, it punches a jagged hole in the rear bulkhead about ½".
Guess what happens next? Yes, you guessed it. A hole wears into your fuel cell in approximately 2 years. This is the fourth time I have heard of this. I'm sure there have been many more, just notreported.
Note: I'm not talking about over center lock.
Make a note, for those who need gear box work, on Lyc 480's try Jaars in North Carolina
(704) 843-6300. (Paul or Tim) cost approx. $1200.00?
JIM POEL'S ALUMINUM RECLINING SEATS
Here is a picture of my new seats. The recline position is achieved by moving the front seat all the way forward, reaching behind the front seat back and squeezing 2 pins that retract the 5/16 rods that sit in the hooked frame. It's hard to picture.
The good news about these seats is that they are aluminum, not steel, saving over 11 pounds of weight. I also had my back cushions reduced from 4" deep to 1" deep. This allows more leg room and saves another 5 lbs. The seats are Republic parts and the pin mechanism change was Jim's idea.
(I don't have a copy of Jim's modification. If you do, please send it to me so I can post it on the website. Thanks.
SM - for the Seabee Club)
HENRY RUZAKOWSKI ON FRANKLIN SOLUTIONS, ETC.
I am not a big proponent of the Franklin engine, that is why, 20 years ago, along with my father at the time we did the first of the Daubenspeck conversions using the Lycoming GO-480 engine. In 1982 we did the Simuflight conversion on our Seabee and have been happy ever since. But, back to the Franklin engine. Richie Brumm is the gentleman who is rebuilding the Franklin's out in Long Island, NY. Richie is a personal friend of mine and has spent many many years working on the problems of the Franklin engine.
A few years ago, he assembled the first of his engines and as of this past summer, has turned over 1000 hours of continuous operation on his Franklin engine. At present, he has 12 engines in the shop being overhauled at this time. There are a couple of his engines out there, of which I have flown one of them. I was completely surprised as to the quietness of the engine.We took of the headsets after takeoff and it was remarkable at the lack of engine noise, and for the record, I was flying in the loudest (Lack of insulation) of Seabees with Riches engine. The performance was better than I had expected and it actually wanted to fly before I was ready, and had to pull the stick back to start the climb. It did get my attention.
Now, by no means is it a Super Bee, you load it down and it will be a water lover for a while again, but I'd be willing to bet that it is putting out close to the 215 HP it was supposed to. The modifications are extensive, but you have a product that is (and I hate to say it) reliable.
I fly only Super Bee's, and a Seabee with Richies engine is an exception to my rule, I'd have no second thoughts flying one of his engines. And a gross weight increase on the Franklin, well, we don't even want to go there. But for the record, a Seabee with the Franklin will more than likely have a higher useful load than a converted Seabee, this is due to the aft CG of the basic installation and the addition of ballast, and in a Super Bee you generally put quite a bit of "toys" in the aircraft. You should see some of the mods that Ken Thompson puts in on his Seabees for owners, and I am still waiting for him to install the kitchen sink yet...
Question: PROPELLOR CAVEAT Bill Krause writes "John, what is the propellor on a Seabee made from? Is it wood covered with plastic or some kind of composite?"
Answer: HENRY (Mr.Seabee) RUZAKOWSKI ANSWERS "Bill, The original Seabee prop was made of Micarta. Kind of like today's Phenolic. You did not mention the stainless steel leading edge that was flush riveted to the prop. I do not believe that this prop is legal today. I do know of one flying three or four years ago. I know I wouldn't get into a Seabee with one on it. It had a bad record of slinging blades, this happened on more than one occasion.
Bebe Rebozo (Pres. Nixon's Florida banker) had a Seabee with that prop on it and could not pass the annual inspection, so he borrowed a three-bladed prop from a friend and got the Bee annualled. As expected, he swapped back to the old prop. A couple of months later he "threw" a blade and crashed in Biscayne Bay near the Nixon Compound. He spent the next eight months in the hospital.MORAL: It is a great prop to hang on your wall, as my father did, in his home in the Keys."
LEAKY MAIN GEAR STRUTS?
Contact Bruce Hinds at email@example.com. He tells of success sealing with Green Leaf Seals and an additive used by Convair. Worth looking into.
STC FOR SEABEE ENGINE CONVERSION
Bruce Hinds writes: "I believe the STC for the conversion to the Continental IO-540 (300 HP) is held by Randy Komko A/P of Yelm, Wa.TEL: (360) 458-7715 Mobile Tel: (253) 229-7219
HARTZELL PROP PROBLEM
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 18:34:06
Another HARTZELL PROP PROBLEM...
(Ed note: I received these e-mails a few months back and felt it was important enough to post as others may find this information useful. Check your reverse mechanism including the return spring especially on the Franklin / Hartzell combination. Capt. Dick Saunders mentions this spring MANY times in his newsletters. Check them here!)
George Papich wrote:
"I have had periodic problems with what I thought was my Hartzel propeller this year. It worked wonderfully on climb, but my $26K prop would go crazy when going to cruise. It fluctuated between climb and cruise during level flight making the ride exciting to say the least.
I talked to both Hartzel and Seabee gurus to no avail. Their thoughts ranged from adjustments, the governor troubles, fuel injection, and carbon block problems.
At the Clear Lake fly-in Sept 2003, the problem reared its ugly head once again. Fortunately an old friend, Randy Komko, was there with one of his beautiful new 350HP Lycoming conversions.
Long story short, Randy looked at all adjustments. At first everything was perfect. Then he made me get into the plane and work the controls. During the run through he asked me to try the reverse again. I hadn't even touched those controls and told him so. Interesting. The reverse lockout was moving about 1/4 inch. The lockout hole was elongated about 1/8 inch in forward and 1/8 inch back. This is not located at the reverse control but back in the cabin reverse lever. Over the years the lockout hole had worn out .040 of the aluminum lockout pin.
I now have a steel insert with a new machine pin. It has zero movement.
In retrospect, the propeller worked perfectly as Randy explained. What was happening was the governor was shutting down. The Hartzel prop was saving my bacon. Instead of going to reverse or cruise, the prop was saying by itself to go back to a much safer climb pitch.
I have from Randy, a copy of Hartzel propeller operation and adjustments. If anyone has a SeaBee, you should have this information. (I'll forward on a copy if you'd like it). I've asked Randy and you can also contact him at Transition Aircraft:"
George - I had a similar problem when we started flying our bee last year after a restoration. The bracket that secures the reverse cable to the prop housing was too short and would not allow the reverse control valve to come all the way out of reverse. No serious incidents but we felt very fortunate when found the problem. Thanks for sharing your story...
Updated October 14, 2018 (Added Crosstube Seal procedure, Added disclaimer, Revised Aft Rudder Cable replacement, Added Aft Rudder Cable replacement)