| Frequently we get
questions from the members that we just don't know how to answer!
Someone, somewhere does though. These are those questions. If you would
like to submit a question, e-mail us
and we will include your e-mail as part of the question. Your answer,
in e-mail form, will automatically be forwarded to Steve and Jim at the
Seabee website and will be posted in the right hand column so that
everyone can benefit or
add to it. Questions and answers will be posted for two months unless
there is significant interest to keep it posted for a longer period of
time. Don't be shy and remember, there are no stupid questions! |
| Questions |
Answers |
| What happened?... Below is from Mr. Freeman (in Canada). He has uncovered another fascinating Seabee story. If anyone has information please forward it to us. The story is this... "I am seeking information about the Seabee airplane for a book I am writing. The book is nothing grand, it is on the history of lake in Canada (Grace Lake) where I own property. The book will be self-published and not a best-seller(!). But I have uncovered many interesting stories and photos that I look forward to sharing. One of the stories is an aircraft accident in the summer of 1955. A Seabee aircraft was taking off from the lake with passengers, when the propeller and parts of the cowling blew off. The pilot was forced to make an emergency water landing, which he did successfully without fatalities or major injuries. Attached are two photos of the damaged plane. I am told that an “investigation” was undertaken, but I do not yet have a copy of any report. I have hired an archivist to search for it in the Archives Canada (Ottawa), although it may no longer exist. Local newspapers are not available for the mid-1950s, so I am trying to piece things together via other means. Here are my questions... 1. How many passengers + pilot could this plane carry? 2. From the photos, what does it look like happened? Clearly the propeller and part of the cowling are gone; was there an explosion? Any idea what it would have sounded like? 3. How difficult would it have been to control the plane with no propellor? How difficult would it have been to make an emergency landing? 4. Apparently the accident happened shortly after take-off, as the plane was just reaching tree-top height over the lake. How long would it have taken to make the forced landing? 5. How rough would that landing have been? 6. What would key gauges on the dashboard be doing? I plan to present the accident in my book, in “graphic novel” format (i.e. through cartoon drawings), so I’d like to show the dash gauges as realistically as possible. 7. Would there have been any kind of audible alarm? 8. Can it be determined if this plane is still in active use? I have confirmed that the aircraft is a Republic R3 Seabee, serial number 512, registered in the U.S. as N6299K and later in Canada as CF-HAG. It was delivered from the manufacturer on March 19, 1947. I would be greatly appreciative of any help you folks can provide. Regards, Dave Freeman Burlington, ON Canada (905) 632-0678 davefreem@gmail.com  |
Answers... We got an answer to the Seabee accident! Mr. Freeman did his homework and dug up the accident reports. Here is what he said: Steve: I have been successful at obtaining some of
the official documents and reports related to the Seabee accident on Grace Lake
Canada. See attached. A number of questions are answered – the
accident happened on Sun Aug 28/1955, a loose prop blade caused the accident,
there was a loud bang heard onboard, three objects were seen falling into the
lake, there were three passengers plus pilot onboard, and no deaths or
injuries. FYI only. But if anything in this report
causes thoughts at your end, feel free to let me know. Thanks again for your
assistance! Regards. ....Dave Accident report Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5
(Ed note: The report makes sense to me. The prop let go along with a section of the propeller extension AND
the right magneto! I think the magneto flew through the cowling after
the prop let go causing the cowling damage. According to the report the
distributor cap (on the left side) was also missing. What caused the
damage is still a mystery as all the separated parts are still on the
bottom of Grace Lake.
|
| Looking for a Seabee!... Hi Steve, I would Like to find this airplane (C-GAJH) as it was the very first ever mod on a
Seabee can anyone tell me where it is now. Seabees are forever.
Thank you
Claude Verdier
cverdier@josmonferrand.ca |
Answers... |
|
Member Mike Shay needs help fast!...
Hi Steve, I'm stuck in a FAA paper chase.
The original battery in a Seabee was Auto Lite CF 129 Form 221 -- where can
I get a picture, description, specifications? I have to show that I'm using an
equivalent battery +/- 1 lb. I need to be able to show
that these were truck batteries, not aviation batteries. Old ads, data sheets,
specs, picture or whatever can be found -- three batteries were approved:
1. Auto Lite CF129
2. Mitchell 2SM-9
3. Exide 2SM
The Rochester Fisdo wants to help me but ASC is making him jump through
hoops.
Thanks...........Mike
Contact Mike (and me) at MikelShay@aol.com |
Answers... All questions have been answered to Mike's satisfaction. Thanks to the Seabee Yahoo newsgroup. Thanks to all who helped! |
| Cross Tube Drawings and Specs... Does anyone have the drawings and material specifications for the landing gear cross-tube? Please e-mail me. Thanks. Chris Cameron clcam@shaw.ca (cc to steve mestler) |
Answer: The tubes were made of 4130 steel with a diameter of 2.975". You can see a drawing here (JPG). |
|
Looking for a Seabee...
Update! (July 8, 2011) "Steve,
You have
posted my note to you and Jim in your "Questions and Answers" section of your
web site and I wanted to give you an update on where my search for my fathers
SeaBee was.
I have been
doing some additional searching and have came up with the serial number and N
number for the SeaBee my father had. The serial number was 817 and the N number
was N6551K. From my research, I believe that the plane is located in Niagara
Falls, NY, and am going to attempt to contact the current owner in late July or
early August 2011. I will update you on my search results in
August.
Jim Poel
was helpful in pointing me in the right direction before his death. He sent me a
photo of the plane and that along with some other information allowed me to
track the plane down.
Thanks
again,
Richard
Shaner"
=========================================================== "Hi, My father
owned a SeaBee from 1947 until around 1958 or 1959. We are trying to track down
the plane and the only thing we have is two pictures of the plane. The
registration number does not show in either of the pictures. My father's name
was Carol J. Shaner and he lived in Bolivar, New York. He bought the plane brand
new and it was registered in his name. From what we recall, he sold it to
someone in or near Buffalo, NY. He had told us that the plane was going to be
used up in Canada for taking people into remote fishing
lakes.
Is there
any way to go back into any data base and see where the registered owners name
is listed on a plane so that we could get the plane's registration number? I am
not sure if this makes any sense, though I might give you folks a
try.
Thanks in
advance for anything you can do to help us track down the plane's registration
number and possibly where the plane is located today.
As kids, we
had many a fantastic day when our dad would take us flying in the
SeaBee.
Thanks,
Dick
Shaner"
|
Answers... |
| Water in the fuel... I would appreciate it if you could post a question on
your sites regarding Weldon 8120G fuel boost pumps used in the Simuflight
conversion:
Has
anyone had problems with pump failures of the 8120G pumps? My recent
experience is that they are (or have become, in recent rebuilds) extremely
sensitive to rust caused by any water in the fuel, even if no water is
obtained when draining the tank sump. Apparently the pump pickup can pick up
water when the tank sump drain does not, and in my experience recent pumps have
failed within a few hours of use (and a few weeks of installation) due to rust
caused by very small amounts of water suspended in the fuel; water in amounts
that does not affect engine operation.
I would also like to know if
anyone has experienced water infiltration into the fuel bladder that was
unexplained. That is, water that did not come from the fuel source, the fuel
tank vent, or from the bottom of the fuel compartment.
e-mail Steve with any answers to this at smestler@pbtcomm.net |
Answers... So, (from an anonomous member) Today I installed the new boost pump (the fourth one after three
failures), being quite confident that there is no water in the fuel system. I
then pumped the 49 gallons of fuel that were in the airplane out through the
gascolator drain using the pump. I sampled the fuel with a 16oz sample jar at
the beginning and after that settled out (it was slightly cloudy), I found there
was the equivalent of a few drops of water in that 16 ounces. After about 15
gallons had been pumped, I took more samples (about 2 quarts), which were
completely clear and had no water at all. After about 20 more gallons I did the
same with the same results. When the pump started sucking air along with fuel I
took another sample and got about 1/4 teaspoon in a quart of gasoline. Prior to
each sample I shook the airplane vigorously to slosh the fuel around and get
things out of creases. The last sample, with very little fuel in the tank was
of course the most effective in sloshing, as the currents would be stronger.
After shutting the pump off I took a sample from the tank sump drain (only about
16 ounces came out at that point), and that fuel was slightly cloudy, with
perhaps a few drops of water in it. However, just as I was unhooking, there was
a brief rain shower that was probably the source of the water, as the jar was
exposed to that and the fuel in the jar originally looked very clear.
I then screwed up my courage and tasted the water that I had collected over the
last couple of months. I was pleased to find that it does not taste salty,
though the small amount of residual fuel made me gag. That means that the water
that splashes in over the door sills (which is salt, of course) and runs back
over the top of the tank cover is not the water that was getting into fhe fuel.
I am quite confident now that the source of water was the fuel tank vent, and
that it happened when I washed down the airplane. Now I have a cap on that vent
line except when I am flying, so I am confident that there will be no more water
intrusion unless it can somehow find its way down backwards via the air filter
and fuel injection servo, which I don't think is possible.
As I said previously, I sampled about a half gallon of fuel from the sump drain yesterday and got no water at all. I figure the hour and 15 minutes or so of
pumping that fuel out helped to break in the boost pump, and I will continue to
use it almost steadily when I fly for some hours to complete the break-in on the
chance that the pumps are initially more sensitive to any rust on the vanes of
vane slots due to tighter tolerances after overhaul. I am disappointed that the
pumps seem to (initially at least, and compared to my original pump) be so
sensitive to water and rust that the vanes get stuck after a few days of disuse
with very minimal amounts of water in the fuel.
I will let the fuel
in the trailer settle for some hours to see if I can see any residual water in
it. Then I will pump most of it back into the airplane, picking it up from a
higher level in the tank so that if there is any water, the pump will not
pick it up. After the trailer tank is nearly empty, I will inspect it
again.
(Ed note: If any of you have had the problems with the fuel pumps failing at an alarming rate, please let us know. steve for the IRSOC) smestler@pbtcomm.net |
| Seabee tail wheel...
How
can I convert the 3" wheel to a 4" wheel? I have heard of a guy named
"Russ" that sells a conversion kit. Does anyone have his contact
information? Is there another way to make the conversion? Thanks.
Steve Mestler (smestler@pbtcomm.net) 6-16-2010 |
Answer from Dr. Henry Chapeskie... (Ed. Note: Evidently there is now no need to convert. As Dr. Chapeskie mentions, Desser Tire makes a 3" replacement. SM, for the IRSOC) "Thanks for the info but I spoke to Brian Robinson and he informed me that Desser Tire was now selling a direct tire (round or square profile) and tube for the original 3" SeaBee tailwheel rim. I ordered it and received it from California in 22 1/2 hours by FedEx! It was installed it 10 minutes ( I ordered the square profile tire) and I
have been up and running since. I have not been given a direct #, etc for this
"Russ" individual and the members should know they can call Desser Tire and have
the real deal in less than 24 hours - no hassle, no issues and proper equipment.
You should put this info on the Q&A page."
Another answer from member Bruce Hinds: "Hey Steve,
The top question on the Seabee Q&A page
regarding the tailwheel tires.....
Yes, Desser does now make a big replacement for
the Channel Tread for the 10SC wheel so you don't have to use the adapter rings
from Russ Aircraft, but the tire is $225, the tube is $95 and it's a bitch to
change.
For $250 (now $300 as of 03-25-2017) from Russ Aircraft www.russaircraft.com you get the adapter
rings, tire, tube and STC. When it's time to replace the tire, it's $39 and the
tube is $13.50. Or you can get the slightly larger tire which is better than
the channel tread for $43.
(See the adapter rings here http://www.russaircraft.com/adapter.htm) When I talked to russ, you could order the rings
without the tire, but I didn't do that, I used his, which is the smaller one, and
it worked just as well or better than the original 10SC!
Bruce" UPDATE from Briuce: I had a call from a member having trouble with the small
tubes supplied by Russ for the 4"� tire and I'd had the same trouble
with a second SC wheel that I have. The first one is on a Bendix
wheel and that was fine, it has a large rubber grommet that supports
the stem that was in there from the old SC tire and tube. It looks like
it's been there for ever. The other wheel (Goodrich maybe ?)didn't
have that rubber wedge shaped grommet and I kept having the tube leak
problem as this other member. The trouble is that the 4"tube has to
expand too much to fill the void around the small hub and ends up being
pinched between the stem and the wheel hub.
My solution was to "pop"� for the expensive SC tube which is much more
robust and also designed to fit around the small hub. Since the over all
diameter is about the same as the SC tire the tube works
well.
8-9-2017
 |
| Looking for a Seabee tail number...
Hi- two Seabees. He gives their model numbers as 6015K and a later 6121K.
Internet research doesn't pull up anything for these model
numbers.
I'm wondering if he got the numbers correct in retrospect, later
confusing them with the registration numbers. The only aircraft I have
photos of has a tail number of N6121K.
Pictures of his Seabees can be found (temporarily) at:
Can anyone help with this? Many thanks!
All the best...
John Etnier etnier@studiodual.com (and Steve)
|
None yet... |
| GO-480
power settings... Bruce Hinds (and alot of other Seabee owners) wonders what power setting YOU use and what fuel burn/airspeed you get. Read his inquiry below: "Let's start with normally aspirated G0-480 types,
cruise speeds and power settings. What do you see?
Tim (Sutton) says... Mine will "cruise at 115+
mph" if I increase the power setting up to 26 square but the fuel burn
goes up of course. I usually keep the rpm 100 or more above the
manifold pressure, the engine sounds better to me. He suggests.....Ask a good cross
section of people to give you speed vs power setting, see if we can
determine what might be going on between the different planes. If
anyone has a fuel totalizer that info would be helpful.
I'll go out and
try 26 square and see what I get, I don't think it will show 115,
what do you normally run as power setting and the resultant
speed? Extended wing?
What about your weight?
I'm usually close to 3000 lbs. which is 2-3 hours of fuel my wife and
dog. 25" and 2550 will show 11-12 gph when leaned and indicate
105 mph with the piper style heated pitot out on the wing with short
extensions. Tim
elaborated with: I don't remember exact power settings. Weight is
usually 1/2 to 2/3 fuel, 2 people, some fishing gear, lunch, so
probably 3000 lbs. Original wings with Daubenspeck
tips. Power around 2600 to 2700 and 24 inches, 105 - 115 mph with
the original pitot tube on the cabin roof, elevation 2500 ft. We put
the piper pitot tube on Bob Gould's plane and the indicated always
seems to indicate a little low. I don't have a fuel totalizer. I
have done a few really long cross country flights and I get about 13.5
gph airport to airport. Engine is GO-480-G2D6 with pressure carb. I
never lean because it is an automatic altitude compensating system,
plus I don't have full EGT setup. As I remember with mine if I set
power same as you I get a little more indicated (5 mph or
so). Cheers Tim
Scott from
Simuflight wrote: In the last couple of years I have had 3
very long ferry flights 5+ hours each. I have a JPI and with
nothing better to do with my time I was able to find some good cruise
numbers on a IGO-480. Typically I found the most efficient cruise
at approx 6000 ft and 24 squared. I was able to lean (Rich) to
between 11.3 and 11.5 gph. Cruise was typically 105 Knots.
These numbers were typical of all 3 ferry flights. Going lower or
higher didn't really help this was the sweet spot.
I don't know that our Beast would even fly at 24 squared! Sure it
will, but it won't break 100 mph, no where near 105 Knots?
It's light and cold I'll give it a whirl, maybe I'll be
surprised. But, I don't think Scott is talking AK numbers. Let
me know what you see, I think everyone is curious. Of course,
flying together is the key. How about you guy in the East.
I see all these bees together, what kind of comparisons have you
seen? Steve, Jim, Ritchie, Henry?"
If you have a theory on the most economical/efficient power setting, let Bruce and Me know. e-mail us at brucehinds@earthlink.net or smestler@pbtcomm.net |
I (Steve) say... "Early on, right after we purchased the
"Ol' Marty B", I was amazed at the lack of power setting information on
the Lycoming GO-480-B (pressure carburetor, normally aspirated). I had
all the Lycoming books and graphs but I decided to call Lycoming
directly.
They said, "You can use any power setting on the Partial Throttle Fuel Consumption Curve". Well, that narrows it down. Evidently it is up to the airframe manufacturer to determine which power setting(s) provide the most efficiency with the least amount of adverse effects (vibration, noise, etc.). Since the GO-480 wasn't around for Republic to determine the most efficient settings, we have to do it all ourselves. When we got checked out with Jim Poel years ago we used 2700 RPM and 22" MP. This resulted in about 14 GPH and about 100 MPH. We were quite heavy as we had three on board and about 35 gallons of fuel. Henry Ruzakowski recommended 2625 RPM; 24" MP which resulted in about 70% power, 105 MPH and a burn of 13.5 GPH. This is the power setting I use when going cross country. When I am just cruising for fun I use 2600 RPM, 22" MP and that results in about 95 MPH and a burn of 12.5 GPH. Let us know what YOU use! This is not limited to just the normally aspirated GO-480's send us information on any Lycoming engine on your Seabee. E-mail us!! (Bruce and Steve) Member Miller Monarch says: "Bruce: In the March 1988 Seabee newsletter Ted Lissauer charted the power settings per the Lycoming Operating Guide for "B", "G1", and "G2" series engines. Using the book's graphs he compiled the charts at various power settings and pressure altitudes. I've studied them and learned that the settings are different for the splined prop shaft engines and the flanged prop engines. I thought the engines were the same except for the gear box prop shafts but looking at the operating guide there are different settings according to lycoming. I have a GO480-G1D6 with the pressure carb and just recently installed an EI fuel computer along with an EI engine analyzer and look forward this summer at experimenting with different settings to see the performance. Regards, Miller Monarch" |
Looking for Seabee Anchor Bags... |
None yet... |
Looking for Film (tapes I guess would work too) on any Seabee...Hi Steve, I met with mr Paras last week in Manila, and it looks that we are going to film his Seabee next year. Thanks a lot for your tip! We are also looking for existing filmmaterial of a flying Seabee, preferably a one engine Seabee, without striping. We could then edit this material to make it look like old filmmaterial, and use it in the documentary. If you would know of someone willing to share his filmmaterial, I would be glad to hear! All the best, greetings, Carel Erasmus (e-mail: careldegrote@hotmail.com) |
None yet... |
Looking for a lost Seabee...HELLO, SOMEWHERE IN THE THE
MIDDLE 1950's THERE WAS A REPUBLIC SEABEE (OR MAYBE TWO) THAT USED
TO GIVE SIGHTSEEING RIDES OUT OF THE CAPTAIN STARN DOCK AT THE
INLET IN ATLANTIC CITY. I WAS ABOUT 8 OR 10 YEARS OLD AT THAT TIME. ANY
INFO ON THAT AIRCRAFT OR ANY PHOTOS? I KNOW I DIDN'T GIVE YOU MUCH
TO GO ON BUT THE IRSOC SEEMS TO BE A PRETTY CLOSE-KNIT GROUP
& MAYBE SOMEONE WILL HAVE A LEAD. THANKS
FOR YOUR TIME.
REGARDS, LOU STRYKER (pooobah) (Contact Steve Mestler at smestler@pbtcomm.net and I will relay the message. Thanks!) |
None yet... |
| Elevator Torque Tube Problem... Both of our torque tube fittings on Bob Gould's elevators
were cracked, so we acquired new used units from a source. After the
fittings were installed we noticed that the left fitting was incorrect.
 This picture of the elevator torque tube
fitting located on the torque tube with the through bolts show
that the four large holes are 90 degrees off from were they should
be. We were assured that this fitting came from a left elevator.
Unfortunately there is not another SeaBee within hundreds of miles for
comparison. Any help would be appreciated.
|
Sort of an answer... I understand that the torque tubes were all drilled by hand. So consequently, no two are the same!! If anyone can shed light on this "urban legend" please let me know! Steve for the IRSOC (smestler@pbtcomm.net) |
|
Strut Quick Disconnect...
Question: Removal of sponson and supports. Hi fellow Seabee'ers: I was wondering if anybody had come up with a quick disconnect to remove the sponson's on a Bee at or close to the wing?? I am trying to figure out how I can share my hanger space with a couple of experimentals to keep my hanger cost down. The sponsons are in the way of the experimentals going under the wing. Also how much work is it to just remove the sponsons at the wing in there normal configuration and put them back on when I go flying?? Thanks in advance! Dan Staton (N950TB) danielstaton@comcast.net |
Jim Poel writes...
Hi Dan. In answer to your strut
removal, I used to share my hangar with another aircraft and would pull
the strut after each flight. I just unbolted the bolt near the wing and
pulled the strut out. It sometimes took a little wiggling, but it slid
out fairly easily. You may try using those ball lock clevis pins that
have the push button release with a washer instead of a bolt to
eliminate undoing a bolt. You can get them on line at http://www.pivotpins.com. Of
course check with an IA for compliance to FAR's and whether you need a
337 or log book entry. Let us know how you make out.
Jim |
| Need Windows... Bob Gould writes:
I have been unsuccessful in finding window plexiglas to fit the SA395NW enlarged rear windows. Does anybody have a source? I am also looking for 3/16" left windshield, and overhead window material that is oversized enough for flush mounting. Maybe you could post this on your Q&A page. Bob |
Answer... Jim Poel answers: HI Bob. I'm not sure which
manufacturer it is, but there is one who will make whatever
shape you want by sending the outline. They will even put in the
amount of bubble. Try Linda Lou (901-365-6611), or Cee Bailey
(323-721-7888), if you haven't already. Let us know how you make out.
Jim |
| Starter for
Lycoming GO-480 engines... Subject: GO-480 Starter I had my starter overhauled 4 years ago because the clutch started to slip excessively when starting a hot engine. This problem showed up over a period of several years. The FAA licensed shop that rebuilt the starter stated that there was a missing clutch disk in the pack and added the additional part. The starter worked fine. Now, I am having major engine work done and an engine shop checked the starter. The clutch slipped at 400 ft-lbf which they stated is substantially over the manufacture’s recommendation. The engine rebuild shop used the correct equipment to check the dynamic slip of the clutch. The engine shop said they do not rebuild these starters because they did not have all of the necessary technical data to ensure compliance with manufacture’s specification. This engine shop seems to be a top-notch engine repair facility. Now the questions, who does a good job overhauling these starters? My crankshaft had a crack on the starter-drive end from the excessive loading from the starter. I spoke the shop that overhauled the starter, and they told me these starters tighten up from use. The lubricant is thrown out from the clutch pack from normal use and the friction increases. This sounds questionable. Can anyone give me advice regarding this statement from the accessory rebuilder, “the clutch normally tightens up from use.” If this is true, then every owner of a GO-480 should periodically remove the starter and check the dynamic friction of the clutch. Regards, CraigSeaBee SN# 871 |
Starter Answer...
Accessories Inc. ( 4123 May Street (316) 946-0701 FAX (316) 946-5801 Email: sales@accessories-inc.com
Clutch set to 325 ft lbs.
Charlie |
| Stainless Steel
Brake Discs... Steve and Jim, I have another question. Out here, stainless disks for the Cleveland brake conversion would be really nice. Cleveland says DON'T USE THEM! (Heat dissipation being the issue) However, there are stainless rotor kits for cars, and they certainly get more braking workouts than a Seabee does. Does anyone have experience with this issue, and has anyone used stainless disks with the Simuflight STC'd conversion? If so, which maker and part number was used? Bob Gould |
Answered the next day!... Jim poel writes: HI Bob, I just spoke with Henry (Ruzakowski). He said he would not recommend SS discs, but rather to use Chrome ones. Cleveland part # 164-10700. If you want to Chrome yours, mill 2 to 3 thousandths off to make room for the chrome. Otherwise you will have trouble fitting them in the calipers. Good Luck, Jim (If anyone knows why you can use SS discs for cars and not airplanes, let me know and I will post the answer here, thanks - Steve for the IRSOC) Another answer from member John Bambey: Re: stainless steel break
discs for |
| I Need a 337 for
this mod... Hey, guys,  (Click on image for full size) Thanks, Bob Gould bob.gould@stanfordalumni.org |
He got it... Bob Gould got his own 337 form approved for the Hand Hole mod. Below is a link to download it if you care to. Congratulations Bob! Steve for the IRSOC Hand Hole 337 form (1.2 MB) |
|
What were the original Seabees
painted with...
Bob Peterman Evergreen Aviation Museum bobpeterman@verizon.netI
am trying to find out the finish on the early production Seabees.
Were they all bare metal or did some have a painted finish? We
are restoring our aircraft and want it to be as close to original
production as possible. I am hoping there were a few painted
versions. If there are photos available I would sure like to
obtain them.
11/3/2005 |
None yet... |
|
Need a data plate...
My question has to do with the location of the manufactures data plate on the Seabee. My mechanic asked me where it was, and I did not know. I remembered that somewhere I had read that it was above the battery box, but both my mechanic and I looked and looked and could not find it. Could you check and let me know just exactly where it is. My airplane is disassembled and it may be on a part that is off now, however I would assume it would be riveted to the biggest piece of the airplane, the fuselage. 8/13/2005 |
None yet... The data plates are in one or two places usually. One is on the vertical panel to the right of the instrument panel and the other location is under the left stabilizer. But, they could be anywhere after so many years with various owners. It must be visible and made of a fireproof material (aluminum). Also it must be firmaly attached. Rivets are the best way. Steve for the Seabee Club |
|
Looking for N6322K...
Hi Jim, Just thought I would tell
you how much I enjoyed reading the excerpt from your book A Plane For
All
Occasions. I will certainly have to buy a copy as I'm sure it
will
bring back some old flying experiences in the lovely beast.
Back in the early 60's a friend asked me to find a Seabee for him. I had flown them earlier out of a small airport (and lake) in Marstons Mills on Cape Cod. I found a beauty (N6322K #546) in Northampton, Mass (near Westover AFB) picked it up for $6000 and flew it back to Nashua, NH. We were both Air Traffic Controllers at Boston Center and I had taught him how to fly... in my J3 Cub. Let me tell you.. it was one heck of job transitioning a student pilot from a J3 to an RC3. The story is too long to tell, but I'm trying to track down the location of 6322K if it's still around. Something like looking up an old girlfriend ;-) I flew that plane all over New England including a landing in Long Island Sound during a sailboat race on a Sunday afternoon. I have checked the FAA records doing an N number search.. and hunted around some Seabee sites but can find no record of the plane. The last time I saw it was when I landed in ALB in a DC-6 in the mid 60's. There it was... tied down on the flight line with its nose on the ground and the tail high in the air. <grin> Just wondering if you have any contacts that could help locate the aircraft... Dave Johnson dbj@comcast.net |
Found it!! Dave Johnson wrote back... I did locate 6322K after a
little research. The gentleman that bought it from me so
many years ago
passed away and the plane has remained in his estate for many
years. From what I gather, his son's do not fly and the
airplane remains hangared at Barnes Airport in Westfield,
Massachusetts. But I'm sure that some day in the not to far
future, someone will rescue the old bird and give
her flight after all these years of waiting.
Keep up the outstanding work...
Best,
Dave
(Note: Also one member (Art Munns) recommended the FAA site to seach for "N-numbers". It works realy well!) |
| Nose Skins?... Hi Jim. I have had another successful flying season. We currently have over 1040 hours total time on our conversion. I am starting to plan my winter maintenance program. The nose skin on our Bee is showing it's age & I would like to replace it. Randy Komo has a fiberglass overlay for it. Is this the only option, or are the original skins available? Any information on how well the Fiberglass skin works? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. The skin I need is the one above the bow skins (in front of the battery box) Brian Robinson robinsonblair@look.ca 10/30/2004 |
None yet... |
| Can Cleveland
brakes use the original Master Cylinders?... James Babcock writes: "Quick
question on installing Cleveland brakes on the Seabee; Is it
possible to use the original Republic master cylinders?
|
Jim Poel writes... "No, James. The original Seabee
brake cylinders are low pressure, High volume. Disk brake need High
pressure, low volume."
Jim |
|
Flap actuator bleeding procedure
anyone?...
We had to remove a leaky flap actuator on the right side to install new 'O' rings and we also replaced both hydraulic lines from the wingroot outboard. Despite trying every trick in the book the right flap system acts like it has air in it. If anyone has a specific procedure that they follow to bleed the system, I would appreciate hearing from them.....Glen Latour 9/13/2004 |
None yet... |
|
Here is a very
good question by a Seabee lover...
Hello Gentlemen, I am impressed
with your web site and in an effort to learn some more
about this unusual airplane, I would like to introduce myself and my
company and hopefully make use of some of your vast knowledge of the
Seabee. My name is Bob Meese and I am an engineering consultant
for Munro & Associates, an engineering consulting firm based in
In reading the informative
articles posted on your web site as well as the seabee.info site, I
have learned that the wings were automatically riveted. The
articles go into a little detail about the sequence and some of the
design features that allow it to be automated but I have not seen
anything that describes that automation. I am extremely
interested in knowing more details like:
If
you have any information or can direct me toward any enlightenment it
would be truly appreciated. If getting information requires
joining the Seabee club, I am willing to do that as well. Thanks
in advance
for any assistance.
Regards, Bob Meese Munro & Associates 248-362-5110 ext.302 (Office in (Ed
note: If I get enough information, I will dedicate a page to the
construction history of our beloved Seabee so send in those pictures
and articles!)
5/12/2004 |
None yet... |
| Tail wheel collar
welding... Does anyone know of an approval to
use a modified welded collar on a
steerable tailwheel installation on a Seabee? eagle118@funport.net Jean and John 4/3/2004 |
None yet... |
|
Elevator Trim Lock up...
Craig Woodbury writes... I am having problems with the trim on my seabee, it keeps locking up and I am not sure why, has anyone had any similar problems? Also does anyone know of an easy fix? After pulling all the inspection hatches and removing my headliner, It looks like the cable only comes apart in the tail of the airplane. Thanks for any information in advance. Craig Woodberry 1/5/2004 |
Jim Poel writes... I'm not sure of what the problem is by your description. You are talking about the trim locking up, then about how it comes apart.You might try isolating the locking up part by disconnecting each side component and working each individually. Things that would lock up are usually the gears which may have too much lash. Or, the chain may be catching on something or be too loose on the sprocket. If you isolate the problem to a component and still have a question, let us know and we can go from there. Just rmember that the trim system is just as important a flight control as the rudder. I know that you know this, but an aircraft with a binding trim system should be considered non-airworthy. You cannot overpower the trim on a Seabee. Good Luck, Jim Poel (If anyone has more information on this problem, please let me know so I can post it here! Steve for the IRSOC) Art Munns writes... Steve, I have had the same problem with my trim system and finally determined by disassembly that the trim cable had multiple strands broken internally which were binding and preventing the hand trim crank from rotating. If you read the last news letter by Grant Southerland he mentioned that I have designed a better and safer trim system. Any one interested may call me at home 804-452-3137 or at the office at 804-222-7494 ext. 274 Art Munns Avionics Inspector (A/W) Richmond FSDO Bob Gould (Hawaii) writes... Craig, The output flex shaft that goes to the elevator puts a side load on the gears in the gearbox. If their shafts are not completely clean and lubricated, they will bind with any (and sometimes no) side (up and down) load. Mine had the same problem, and I finally got the bad one working again after putting the gearbox in a drill press and running it for a long time while washing it out with penetrating oil. Lots of gunk came out. It's kind of like the old Mercury outboard stearing swivel. A little bit of rust and dirt gets between the shaft and the bushing and it binds. Tim Sutter put some bearing races on his gearbox, and they seem to work fine. He also added grease fittings, and I want to do the same. Another cause can be a poorly lubricated, rusty, or old chain at either end. The chain will not bend and will lock up if it gets corroded. You can get stainless chains, or just new regular ones and keep them well greased. If you want more info I can get a bit more detailed. Bob |
| UC-1 engines
request... Mr. Roger Glazer writes: Is there an after market installer of larger engines (for the UC-1 Twin Bee)? 7/23/2003 |
Jim Poel writes...
Hi Roger. I
haven't heard of any changes to the original engine configuration on
the twin Bee. You might want to ask one of the owners directly. (Hardy
LeBel for example)
Jim Poel |
| Bilge Pump
paperwork requested... Our co-webmaster, Jim Poel, has a request for anyone having the paperwork (337's, STC, etc) for the bilge pump system on our Seabees. Please advise Jim or Steve if you can help us out. Thanks
a million!
7/28/2003 |
None yet... |
| Seabee Tailwheel
Tire(s)...
I need a tail wheel tire for a Bendix 3 1/8" (10" OD ) wheel. Are there new ones available? What can it be replaced with? Anyone's input would be greatly appreciated. (810)
434-6201
7/15/2003 |
Jim Poel Answers...
To
answer the tail wheel question on the questions page: Desser sells
10.5" x 4" channel tread tires, about $100. Dusters and Sprayers
sells adapter rims, (about $60). Use the original tube. This
combination is easier to get on and off the tailwheel hub and very good
in soft ground as the tire is square. It needs a field approval. Also,
a guy named Russ advertises the whole combination with paper work to
put a 4" tire on your tailwheel. His is over $100 including tire,
tube, and paper work. Either one of these will work well.
|
| Looking for
Electric Hydraulic Pump drawing... Paul Teremy
is looking for the drawings and/or overhaul manual for the Simuflight
(I believe) Electric Hydraulic pump (HYB-5005).
Paul writes: I
need the assembly drawing on the gear pump which is attached to the
"power -pack" ( 12 volt DC motor). I needed to have some
welding done on the gear pump and the welder separated the two
assemblies of the gear pump which has springs, washers and
ball-bearings.
I don't know where these parts go back, so an assembly drawing would be
helpful.
Thanks, Paul 6/20/2003 |
From Bernie
Nolen... The Electrol hydro
pump from Simuflight came from the tilt outdrive actuator off a boat.
Most of the ski boat runabouts use this to control the
tilt and trim of the out drive in an I/O installation. Try
the local boat repair shop.
|
| Bent Wing Floats... Bob Bastin writes, I need some info on people or places that can help smooth a lightly bent pair of floats. 6/5/2003 |
Jim Poel
answers... Depending on where you are, most body shops can do
something like that. The other choice is a good sheet metal man who
will take them apart, pound them out, and put them back together. Jim
|
|
Door Handles...
Greg in Dallas writes, Hey
there, Hi there, Ho there, does any one have a source for the entry
door handles? There
is a jeep one in JC Whitney, but it doesn't have the interior handle.
Thanks, Greg in Dallas PaulaJK5@aol.com 5/27/2003 |
Ralph Buter
writes... I have some door handle hardware available. Let me know what you need and I'll see how I can help. Ralph Buter Bill Lawson (N6201K) writes: If you need Door handles, I have found that WAG AERO has a door handle set Cat. No. H-815.003 that fits and looks similar to the original. Go to WWW.wagaero.com to see it of call 1 800 558-6868 to get a catalog. Bill Lawson writes again: There is a good source for all sorts of handles. www.austinhardware.com The ALH20072 1/2 looks like the same one. Just click on "Handles" and then "L handle locking". Bill Lawson 8/20/2003 |
| Wing Skins... My uncle and I are trying to start
the restoration of 2 Sea Bees, that's why we would like
to know if anyone has some information about "wing skin"
for the Republic SeaBee, or if someone still make it,
or has the pattern to mould it...
Thank
you in advance for your help.Esteban Cuadrado. estebancuadrado@yahoo.com.ar 4/8/2003 |
Jim Poel answers...
Hi Esteban, There may be some wing skins around, but not many. To my knowledge, there is no one who has any method of constructing them either. The common method of wing repair, is to find a damaged wing and use the undamaged skins from it. There are still a pretty good supply of those around. Good luck, Jim Greg writes... Dear Estaban, I am also restoring a bee and am
having the same problem (with wing skins) let me know if you
find
some one and I will do likewise .
Thanks,Greg ? K.C. Ostronik writes... The original alloy metal that was used to make the RC-3 wing skins was 14ST or 2014. There was a Reynolds version: R301W that was apparently used as well. The dies used a 8'X3' steel blanket with the bead former. This original alloy used to manufacture these skins is no longer produced today. The closest alloy produced today is: 2024T3. 2024T3 only has a 6% formation property as apposed to the 15% formation property of 4ST. 2024T3 can not form the beads without cracking. 2024T4 version would have better forming properties; even a heat treatment procedure might work to produce new wing skins. Unfortunately, this will not meet FAA guide lines and thus is not approved without extensive (read very expensive $$) testing procedure. I figured a production run of approximately 50 skins. Each skin would cost about $1,500.00 just to break even. These skins would not be FAA approved. As a note of further interest: the skins come in two different thicknesses, the out board skins were .025 (of which I have 6 to 10 bran new ones) and the inboard skins which are .032 in thickness. Republic used only the .032 skins near the end of production rather than form new .025 skins which were in short supply. Hope this answers some of your questions. Sincerely, K.C. Ostronik #129 Bill Lawson writes:I made a set of press break dies to make ribbed flat pieces when I did my wing extensions. I currently can make them in any length but only up to 24 inches wide in the rib direction. I usually make them out of .032 2024. The trick is getting the spacing exactly right. It would be possible to make them wide enough with the right dies to cover the full wing but some one that is an artist would need to make the smooth part that is the leading edge of the wing and then rivet the ribbed skins to it to form a complete wing skin. I can make some up if you can let me know the sizes. They take a long time to make. The best solution is probably to take an old wing apart. Bill Lawson N6201K Scott Henderson writes:Jim; I saw the questions about wing skins on the web site. We have just begun work to manufacture new wing skins. They are not cheep $1,595 each but they are new and they are made from the original Republic drawings just with modern tooling. Right now we have to have a minimum production order of five skins and availability is about 4-6 weeks. We are also open to the manufacturing of any other original parts as required. Unfortunately they are not cheap once we have to pay for the tooling but they are available. Things are moving fast for us with the opening of the Fallon shop. I am putting together a document package to have a number of keel strips manufactured this year so they should eventually be in stock. Expect new STC's this year, Electric trim system, Landing light kit (yes I know this is an old kit but finally STC'd). We just need to do the flight test and the paper work will be finalized. We have actually flown all the testing the FAA just needs to verify our results. Once I get caught up on things I will be converting a number of our kits installed with a 337 to STC's. My work with the FAA is fairly easy, they like working with an ex-Boeing engineer and I did learn to do paperwork at Boeing so the STC's are going to move forward. Scott Henderson Simuflight 2/19/2006 |
| Where is Mr.
Daubenspeck?... We have had a few inquiries on the
whereabouts of Mr. Daubenspeck and his STC's for the Lycoming Engine
modification. If he has passed away, who does the STC's he once had
belong to? Are the STC's usable? If anyone has any information, please
forward it to us and we will list it here. (Some say he was last seen
in the California area.) Thank you all for your input.
Steve, for the IRSOC |
Answers...
Bernie answers, Jack was living in Oregon for a number of years and passed away about a year or two ago...don't know what ever happened with the STC's... (Ed note: His son is in charge of the STC's. He has contacted the IRSOC and is in the process of providing additional information.) 5/12/2004 |
| What are the wing
floats made of... Would
you post on the question and answer site what alloy the wing floats are
made from? I have a set of
floats of Bobby Bastins that I need to de-wrinkle a bit, but they seem
to be heat treated. They are so damn tough that I can't seem to do
anything with them for fear of cracking the aluminum. Possibly if
I disassemble them I could wheel or planish them. Do you know any phone
no. where I might get someone's experience with them on
the other end?
Please & thank you in advance, George Rettberg (Note: I am assuming George means what type of aluminum. i.e: 6061, etc.) Steve for the IRSOC |
Answer #1 from Ralph Buter...
Wing
floats are R-301W .051 skins. They may be hardened because of age.
Heating them somewhat may soften them.
All the best, Ralph Buter
|
|
Longest Trip in a Seabee...
I was wondering what the longest trip anyone has made in a bee and how long it took them? Thank you kindly, Lee Hunphreys 2/3/2003 |
Here they are... Don
Buck says: Contact Henry Chapeskie. He and his dad made a wonderful
northern Canada and Arctic trip. Don't know a lot of details but they
left southern Ontario, were in Inuvik in the Northwest Territories and
returned. Check a map. Thats a loooooooooong trip in a Bee at 100 mph!
Dr. Henry Chapeskie writes: I
assume you are referring to the trip my dad and I had back in 1995
(written up in the ?Nov, 1997 Private Pilot) up to Inuvik and Victoria
Island in the Canadian Arctic. That trip was 6,600 miles in length. It
might be interesting to the readers if it were scanned in from the
Private Pilot magazine - good reading and photos.
Jim Poel (336 NM)-My personal best in my Franklin is 4Hrs, 54min landing with 16 gallons. Kirk Airbase, SC (T73) to Spruce Creek, FL (7FL6). Headwind all the way. Les
I bought a SeaBee in San Antonio,
TX. 4 year ago. I flew it home to Lake Louise Alaska. It took me 4 days
at 105 mile per hour. I really enjoyed that trip. I flew through everything
from extreme winds and rain to beautiful peaceful sunny skies.
Tim Sutter |
| Springs for Tailwheel Up/Down
Lock... Do you know if these springs are available? My
bee came without one. If I just knew the tension specs (lbs) at 8.5 and
12 inches that would sure
help. The spring that I
need is the one
inside the tail that keeps tension on the retracting linkage collar so
that
the gear will remain locked in place if you loose hydraulic pressure. I
do
not have the steerable tailwheel but I think that the spring I need
would
be the same in any case. the spring is probably about 6 inches long and
the
travel is 8.5 inches at the shortest point to 12 inches at the longest
point.
Thanks, Bill Shaver 2/2/2003 |
Answer #1
from Steve Mestler.... Bill, I don't have a spring for you but
I attached a picture of the
one on the Marty B. The steel wire it is made from measures .085". You
could probably make one easy enough. It doesn't
take much to start stretching it out (5-10 pounds). The long
end of the spring goes into the tailwheel linkage. The short
end goes to the airframe bracket in the fuselage. I hope this helps.
Stevefor the IRSOC Answer #2 from Ralph Buter.... Hello Bill, 2/10/2003 |
| Continental IO-470
installation... I have been thinking of installing a Continental IO-470 engine in my Seabee. I got the engine overhauled but I need the plate between the crancase and the extension housing. Also, I need to know the STC holder for that installation and if you can tell me someone to contact for information for the installation of the engine or if you know if a Seabee has been modified with the Continental engine and are they still flying or what came of them? Also if you know of any parts for the Continental engine? I hope to hear from you soon. Gudjon V Sigurgeirsson Along the same subject Bjorg Gudjonsson writes... More info needed on IO-470p. How was the pitch controlled on that installation and where was the oil pressure taken to control the prop? Does someone out there have pictures or a drawing of this installation? 12/17/2002 |
Answer #1 from Mike Carey
RE: IO470P It is my understanding that this engine (a pusher) was developed to power the Lane Riviera, which was manufactured by Saia Marchette in Italy in the 1960s and assembled in Texas. About 23 aircraft were imported and about four or five are still flying. I have two of the engines and am attempting to install one in a Bee. Unhappily, there is no STC, so you will have to go "Expermental". There is one plane with this engine installed and it is located at the New Haven McComb Airport (57D) northwest of Port Huron, MI. The owner is Gene Balon and his phone number is: (edited). He is very knowledgable about Bees and has informed me that he would be happy to share his information particularily about the IO470P. So, give him a call. With regard to parts, Continental has everything you need. Regards, Mike Carey |
|
Part
Number for electric Hydraulic Pump...
Do you have a Part # for the electric hydraulic pump for SeaBee gear/flaps? Would appreciate your response on this. Thanks. John Murphy & Dorothy Stringer SeaBee N87570 12/20/2002 |
Answer #1 from Jim
Poel:
Hi, folks, the only thing I have is from the twin bee, and I'm afraid it won't help much. The part number is from a drawing that is 3 ft. by 6 ft. in size, so I can't email you a copy. It is STOL aircraft Drawing # 67-058900. The pump assembly number is 67-058901-1. And the power pack is 67-058902.1. We'll put it on the questions and answers page and see if we get a response. Anyone with the system installed, should be able to help. Jim Answer #2 from Steve Mestler: I had trouble finding the Part/Serial number of my pump. It may be underneath where I can't see it but I found this from the STC# SA 1158 NW paperwork: Prestolite (Website) P/N: HYB-5005 (12v). Steve |
|
Okay, this is an easy one...O-ring size... Does anyone know the size of
the O-ring
that fits the top inside bushing of
the landing gear strut?
Lou Fitzpatrick 1/05/2003 |
Answer #1 from Jim
Poel:
Contact Richie Brumm. He sells the seals you need. brummrichkaren@ aol.com. Jim Answer #2 from Steve Mestler: The part I
show is AN6230-10.
All O-rings are listed here. Some
on the list may have changed. Richie Brumm (above) uses Quad-X
seals and are very good. I re-did our Bee with Richie's seals and they
haven't leaked yet (six years now).
Steve |
